Everything you wanted to know about '67 Sequential Signals

If it's mechanical, electrical or just downright confusing, this is the place to find and share answers.
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Re: Everything you wanted to know about '67 Sequential Signals

Post by ssava » 01 Mar 2018, 06:06

coachJack wrote:
27 Feb 2018, 17:30
lefty1954 wrote:
27 Feb 2018, 14:07
Are there significant differences in sequential turn signals for 67 and 69?
YES!!! the 67 (and 68s) are electro-mecahanical utilizing multiple relays whereas the 69 ( and later years) are solid state electronics.

Coach Jack
For an example of the relays in the 67... see the video above. I move to the inside after a few seconds so you can see the relays.

Or since this is on a new page... here you go.
'67 Cougar XR7 purchased September, 2017 to work on with my twin (14) year old boys
Franklin, TN

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Re: Everything you wanted to know about '67 Sequential Signals

Post by DeNetMan » 01 Mar 2018, 16:56

My original post on this problem was back around Feb 20th. At that time I had no turn signals and my brake lights only worked on the outside taillights on my 68. I have since ordered and installed the electronic unit in the trunk. My turn signals are working fine now for both left and right. Now I do not have brake lights on any of the taillights. While testing I have managed to get brake lights temporarily when I unplug the white plastic plug to test the green-orange and orange-blue wires. When I plugged the white connector back in the brake lights no longer worked. However, this process does not always end with the same result. I have managed to get brake lights temporarily on all taillights, and once just the outside lights, and now back to no brake lights at all. I think I remember reading in the excellent troubleshooting documents that the brake switch on the 68 does not go through the turn signal switch. Am I correct in this? I am not always getting power through the green, green-orange, and orange-blue wires at the sequential flasher connecter in the trunk. I have checked my ground for the taillights and it seems to be working ok and taillights and turn signals are working fine. My ground is also connected to the new sequential box. This is a problem that I have to troubleshoot on my own which makes it difficult to know whether I always have enough pressure on the brake pedal. I would appreciate any help in narrowing this down.

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Re: Everything you wanted to know about '67 Sequential Signals

Post by pellets4fuel » 02 Mar 2018, 09:55

Bill or Jack,
So I had the K7 relay open last night to see if I could figure out how it needed to be tweaked to get it to function. Is there more detail on this somewhere? Basically like a set of breaker points in there that are closed (if I recall right) when not energized. I cleaned them with very fine sandpaper while I had it open. I did watch it function with the cover off. Clicks once if the relay is "cold", and then not again. If I activate two times in a row now it is what I call "warm" (not physically to touch, just terms I am using) and it don't even click once that second time.
Something else curious though seems to be going on. If I activate left things sound different than when I activate the right. It seems like another relay up on relay board is engaging when I activate the right. I don't have all 4 of my right bulbs working yet, is the only difference (missing one of the rear sockets, and need to change the harness on my Mustang repro right front light yet to match Cougar harness. So why the extra relay noise when activating to the right, but not the left?
Solid state trunk plug in works nice though. Left signals sequence nice and consistent in speed, and no clicking motor sound.

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Re: Everything you wanted to know about '67 Sequential Signals

Post by xr7g428 » 02 Mar 2018, 11:36

All the bulbs need to be in place and working for you to trouble shoot a flasher. Current flowing through the bimetallic strip causes it to heat up and then bend to break the contact. When it cools off, it will bend back, remaking the contact. To adjust it you will need to adjust the tension by slightly bending the fixed side of the points. I don't recommend trying to bend the bimetallic strip. This is a very touchy adjustment, just a little bit of bend will do and the points must stay parallel to each other and in alignment.
Bill Basore, Editor / Publisher
Legendary Cougar Magazine
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