went to the track

This is the place for your Cougar adventure stories. Do you drive your Classic Cougar? Tell us about it!
Caleb
Registered Member
Posts: 385
Joined: 04 Jan 2015, 22:03
Location: Abbotsford B.C. Canada

Re: went to the track

Post by Caleb » 09 Sep 2016, 11:26

I'm going by memory but I believe we went with 15* initial and 34* @2500. No vacuum advance. Car still started fine. We've never worked on fords so we kinda just went with what we had used on sbc's and it seemed to work ok.

User avatar
1969XR7Vert
Registered Member
Posts: 3521
Joined: 24 Dec 2010, 06:52
Location: Brick, NJ

Re: went to the track

Post by 1969XR7Vert » 09 Sep 2016, 15:32

Wow Mark, my old "Cleveland Rocks" ('70 HT 4-speed) went 13.9@103 with a similar setup (and 3.23 gears). She only had a 650 mechanical secondary Holley.
Isabel, the realization of a seven year long dream:



Canted--Texan on the351cforum: "One of my most impressive attributes is that.......a lot of people don't like me.....or the horse I rode in on"

guitar74
Registered Member
Posts: 1461
Joined: 11 Oct 2015, 16:55

Re: went to the track

Post by guitar74 » 11 Sep 2016, 08:35

Get that vacuum advance connected unless you like bad ring seal from fuel washed cylinders. It actually does serve a purpose on the street. A lot of Mopar guys make the same mistake, including me when I was younger. Unless it is a purpose built drag car, you are actually hurting yourself. 34-36 total is more chevy territory, and 32-34 is more small block Mopar territory. I'm running 36 total by 2800 with 12 degrees initial, but a lot of guys are running up to 38 with sbfs. A lot of people will disagree with this one, but 2,500 is a bit early for a street car in my experience. Hook that vacuum back up, take it for a ride and adjust it (the vacuum advance, not the initial) until you hear spark knock under mild acceleration in top gear (climbing a hill under light throttle is a good scenario), then dial it back in small increments until it's gone. Most of my small block fords seemed to like 36-38 degrees total, but the curve depends on your gearing, compression, etc. There is no one size fits all. Gearing, compression (ratio), and the car's weight all come in to play, so don't be afraid to experiment with that curve, and by all means run vacuum advance. try full and ported to see what works best with your engine. I run ported on my 289, but a lot of guys go full vacuum with better results (again it's the combo). My combo runs better on ported. Like I said, there's always an anomaly, so don't be afraid to experiment. My 400m in a heavy car with a mild cam(204,214 degrees, .484 .510 lift), Holley two barrel, and tall gears (2.75), with factory slugs actually ran best with 10 degrees initial, and 42 degrees total. When I built it the second time with a bigger cam (222 dgrees, .524 lift), 3.50 rear gear, milled heads and block decked, full port and polish, and 600 cfm dual feed Holley, that figure went to the same initial, but with 38 degrees total. Same car, same engine, different build, different gearing. At the time all I could get was a forged vesion of the factory slugs for this engine, otherwise the compression would have been higher.

That's what works on my car. May not on yours so experiment, take notes on improvements, as well as the other way. I don't have access to a chassis dyno, so I have to rely on seat of the pants, as well as plug color, etc. That being said, if you go from being lazy off the line, to needing traction aids, or chassis tuning because you have a more responsive, better tuned engine, then trust me, with traction, you'll be faster. It does sound like you are upper rpm issues too, so I think you have a lot to gain in the tuning process which will take a little time. I would try tuning before tearing apart the top end for a cam change.

Get that car on a good stretch of rd., get in top gear and floor it (no passing gear where it doesn't downshift, just make sure you have a long stretch with good sight, and is a good safe stretch of rd as your speeds will be pretty fast), hold it there long enough to climb in rpms past that early falling off stage, shut the engine down without taking your foot out of it, and when you get stopped pull a plug and check the color. Brownish/Tan is your goal. dark or black-too rich, white-too lean.

Pontiac Ed
Registered Member
Posts: 111
Joined: 03 Mar 2012, 19:22
Location: Suburban Chicago

Re: went to the track

Post by Pontiac Ed » 07 Mar 2017, 13:58

Way back in the day ('78), my '69 XR7 with a mild cam, Offy Dual Port intake, 600cfm Holley, cheap headers, FMX and a 3.00 open rear end would run 15.0 @ 95mph all day. When I sold it to my friend he put a 4.11 gear in it and it was a beast. 15.2 @87 seems a little off especially with a 3.90 gear.
Pontiac Ed
'69 Cougar - bought 6-21-12, I'm the 2nd owner
'62 Grand Prix - my son will get this one from my estate
'00 Camaro SS - modern summer daily driver

guitar74
Registered Member
Posts: 1461
Joined: 11 Oct 2015, 16:55

Re: went to the track

Post by guitar74 » 08 Mar 2017, 06:25

I think some it is in the tune. My bud's Fox body 'stang stock would run in the mid to low 14s stock as long as he had grip.

guitar74
Registered Member
Posts: 1461
Joined: 11 Oct 2015, 16:55

Re: went to the track

Post by guitar74 » 08 Mar 2017, 19:23

I think he'll be in the 14s soon enough. Probably faster. I know he had a lean issue which I think he took care of. I'm sure mine isn't as fast as I would like to think it is.

Post Reply