Reviling the "DPO"

From dusty barn find to daily driver, it seems our cars are never really done. This is the place to share your progress on your project car. We will celebrate your victories and commiserate over your tragedies. But most of all this is a great place to learn!
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ssava
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Re: Reviling the "DPO"

Post by ssava » 15 Nov 2017, 06:31

stonesg wrote:
14 Nov 2017, 10:25
ssava wrote:
14 Nov 2017, 09:32
Wow

I know ...right??? I've seen worse.

Gonna cost me money... not just parts.... need a newer air compressor.... mig welder (I'm taking a class in a few weeks) etc.... need more tools... at least that's what I'm telling her. Actually she's totally on board. I'm lucky that way.

Yes Bill... 'cept it's fun this time cause some of the bone headed stuff was done by me.

TG
You're a braver man than I am... ha ha.
Good luck, buddy.
"Esmerelda"
'67 Cougar XR7 purchased September, 2017 to work on with my twin (14) year old boys
Franklin, TN

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stonesg
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Re: Archaeology and inventory

Post by stonesg » 17 Nov 2017, 09:59

snafu wrote:
14 Nov 2017, 21:38
stonesg wrote:
12 Nov 2017, 09:37

stonesg wrote:
12 Nov 2017, 09:37
Are the door and rear side panels "cores" in any way? Or are they just something to be tossed and replaced?
You'll want to save the vinyl if you can and the top metal piece. WCCC has the fiber backing and a video showing how to rebuild them.
Ya... I just looked at availability of those rear side panels and I may have to end up recovering them myself as they seem to be unubtainium.

My plan was to change the interior to black (as you could see by the headliner) so I'd need, (I'm thinking), a headliner, carpet, rear seat foam and upholstery and door panels. The rear panels I figure I could do myself with a proper black fabric like a motorcycle seat I've done and contact cement.

I'm thinking of giving the door panels I have a good scrub and see if perhaps I could dye them black. I've done a bumper pad on a motorcycle tank that is a similar material and it turned out very good. I can't remember what the product was, (I've got the can still somewhere) but that's what it's actual use is (upholstery Dye).

My Brother is delivering an engine hoist and stand and a C4. If my memory serves, My Pop had a '66 mustang 3 speed and had the nutty idea to make it an auto so he may have bought this for the swap. Bro thinks it's been rebuilt. We'll see.

Tomorrow I plan to pull both door panels as (and doesn't this just figure...) the drivers door will not latch and I can't open the passenger side. I'm sure it's from the rain that's been getting inside the doors for years has rusted the mechanisms.

I hope to pull the seats and get the last bit of carpet out of there too.

TG
'67 standard basket case

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stonesg
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Opening the Door...

Post by stonesg » 19 Nov 2017, 10:25

So to recap.... Drivers door will not close and passenger will not open.

I knew I needed to get to the door latch and manipulate it but since the door is closed, getting the door panel off is not possible without mutilating it and I'm not willing do do that just yet as I may need it.

Doing a little research and I found a post here that indicated there was a flaw with the '67 latches and the unlock procedure was to basically "Slim Jim" the door.

Not having a proper Slim Jim anymore (In my past life I did have one...) and since in this case you only need to push down on the relevant part (Door Latch Pawl), I used a large flat blade screwdriver to wedge open a slot at the window and inserted a piece of aluminum I have that's about 1.5x.25"ish and attempted to find the pawl.

I couldn't find it by feel. An actual Slim Jim is easier to manipulate as it's much lighter spring steel so the, "Feel" is better.

Modern technology to the rescue:



USB Borescope camera. These can be had for less than 20 bucks (!!!) all day long on ebay. I've got it strapped to the bar stock back far enough that the plan was to get the corner just forward of the camera on the edge of the pawl and give it a push.



Here's the manipulation setup just after the door popped open. I was working the camera and looking over the latch and decided I needed a little bend in it to get to the pawl better as I was aimed right at the pivot point. I had already given it a little push and it didn't feel like it moved. I pulled the bar out partially and as I started to give it a little bend, the door popped open.

It appears after looking at the latch that I may have broken the latch spring or possibly gave the pawl just enough push to loosen it up.



I found the remainder of the pawl spring on the latch and noticed that the torsion spring was missing. Thinking that it could not have gone too far, I dug around in the mulch at the bottom of the door and found these.

Our Favorite Cougar Parts Place has the door latch (pawl) spring but a little searching so far shows the torsion spring to be unubtainium. Anybody have a source for these things or am I going to have to wind my own?

TG
'67 standard basket case

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xr7g428
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Re: Reviling the "DPO"

Post by xr7g428 » 19 Nov 2017, 15:10

This works a lot better if you make the tool as described in the thread. It may be easier to find a replacement latch than it is too find a good spring.
Bill Basore, Editor / Publisher
Legendary Cougar Magazine
Currently in the Cat House
'67 XR7 GT 390 4 speed, AC, AM FM, Lime Frost Green
'68 XR7-G 428CJ C6, Tilt-Away, AM, Black Cherry
'68 XR7-G 390 4 speed, Sunroof, Cardinal Red
'68 XR7 GT-E 427 C6 AM Cardinal Red
'68 XR7 resto mod 351W, soon to be AOD, Black Cherry

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1967 S Code
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Re: Reviling the "DPO"

Post by 1967 S Code » 19 Nov 2017, 21:48

It looks like you’ve got quite the project on your hands. What kind of budget have you set for the restoration? Rust repair can be a killer of time and money. Good luck with your project.
Steven
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1968 XR7-G
302 4V, Lime Frost / Black Leather, AM/FM, Black Vinyl, Tilt-A-Way
Heavy Duty Suspension, Power Disc Brakes, Rader Wheels


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390 4V, Black Cherry/ Dark Red Leather, Black Vinyl, Sunroof, Tilt-A-Way,
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1968 Convertible Conversion "Top Cat"
Standard, 302 4V, XR7G Console, XR7G Front Valance

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stonesg
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Re: Reviling the "DPO"

Post by stonesg » 24 Nov 2017, 08:47

Budget? HA!.... strictly pay as you go labor of love here.

And I'd seriously hesitate to call it a, "Restoration" in the "Back to like new" sense.

It's going to be clean and safe and fun to drive but there are probably many things that will be not "correct" before it's all over.

So far the only major work that I've never done before is sheet metal replacement so that's going to have a learning curve but I'm looking forward to it.

Carb is on the bench right now being rebuilt.

I'm going to go out and borescope the intake and cylinders this afternoon as the motor will turn easy by pulling the fan so if there's not a ton of rust on any cylinder walls, I may drop some oil in each and give it a few degrees of turn over the next week, change the oil and filter and stick a battery in her.

I'll also be doing a very close check of all the wiring to make sure there's no rodent shorts etc.

I believe the, "DPO" when he says, "Was running when parked" but I have no idea what's happened to it during the years my sister had it in her yard.

TG
'67 standard basket case

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stonesg
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Carb Cleaner....

Post by stonesg » 25 Nov 2017, 09:09

Having always had around the old bucket of Gunk carb dip in my Pop's old garage, and in a friends garage space that he allowed me to squat in, I was worried that in setting up my own shop that the "Newer" possibly environmentally "friendly" carb dip would not work as well as it used to.

Happily I was wrong as is evidenced by the following before/after pictures of my long neglected Holley:



Here's the main float bowl before. I wish I'd gotten one more picture of the floor of the bowl... it was a beautiful deep amber lacquer color. Hard and shiny... you'd wish that a fine piece of furniture looked so good.... I was worried that I'd have to dip, scrub, dip scrub.... wrong.... about an hour or so of dip and here's what it looked like:



Here's the metering plate:



and after:



Throttle plate:





The throttle shafts were locked solid so I sprayed with WD-40 and slowly worked them loose. I kept loading up the shafts with spray and slowly working them as the goo worked it's way out. After getting them free I sprayed them with a thicker spray lube and they feel pretty good. I'm hoping that they will not be a vacuum leak source now but I'll be on the lookout for that and it may have to be replaced.

I did have to requisition a pot from the kitchen to dip the main body and throttle plate as they are to large to go into the gallon paint can.

Pulled the plugs and squirted a little oil in each cylinder. I took a look at one with the bore scope and didn't see any rust at all but after turning the motor a little ways it comes up to a soft stop. I pulled the valve covers and don't have a loose rocker like I'd expect if a valve were hung up so I think possibly I've got a lifter stuck in it's bore.

I'm thinking of dumping the oil and shooting some ATF/acetone mix down the pushrod holes and working it back and forth to see if I can get it to come free.

Not a big deal as I plan to eventually tear it compleatly apart but it'd be fun to see it run and move and make it easier to get it into the garage.

TG
'67 standard basket case

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