replacement door skin repair

Paint, bondo, body work, and rust repair: whatever it takes to make your Cougar look new again, all goes here
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Re: replacement door skin repair


Post by DieselD » 19 Jan 2018, 09:25

pellets4fuel wrote:
19 Jan 2018, 09:17
Hey thanks for the input. I did get them back together. I actually tig welded them ( no sparks) Was able to shear and bend up some small tabs for the missing ones. Biggest thing with the tig welding was to get all impurities out otherwise It don't weld the best. I was very careful on watching how much heat I allowed to get in the "picture" I even flash cooled down with a cold wet soaked rag several times.
Both doors turned out great. Passenger side door alignment stayed fine. Drivers door actually had a twist to it without the tabs attached. So much so that the long bolt that goes through the vent window frame, well the hole on the inside panel was a complete hole off from the threaded weldnut on the tab on the outer panel. I made a "dummy" spacer to represent the thickness of the vent window frame, and getting in the right Yoga position held in on the bottom outside of the door with my knee, pushed out on the top inside corner and the door twisted back to a point where the bolt path came into alignment. Held it there and tightened the bolt to hold it, then fabricated tabs and welded in. Took bolt out, and wahla it stayed. Down side; now the door alignment is off. I have never adjusted a door before, so on to learning something new!
nice work! If it was easy everyone would do it!
I have yet to master the art of Tig welding, MIG no worries, done lots of that but very little experience with the TIG machine
1968 Standard, 302 2v, 3 speed.

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Re: replacement door skin repair


Post by 1jarhead2 » 19 Jan 2018, 21:58

Thats awesome, good to go

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Re: replacement door skin repair


Post by pellets4fuel » 29 Mar 2018, 11:52

So it continues; As previously posted I managed to get my doors fixed up. Passengers side door is done and glass 'was' all adjusted (I'll get to that in a sec) but been trying to get the drivers side done. Having some issues with getting things to align right, which I know glass alignment is a big PIA.
So back to the passengers door for a sec; everything was/is adjusted good, and the window was rolling up and down nice. Well I bought a new pair of glass run inserts from WCCC. Mine the little wedge on top was quite weathered and broke off from the vertical channel strip. I put the new one in the passengers side, and now the glass goes up and down really hard.
So back to drivers side; put that new glass run in as well. Also got a new regulator from WCCC the one they say is the better of all repros, and installed that. I adjusted the vent window frame to opening/weather strip to my liking gaps all look good, but can't get the door glass to go up and down good at all, and not "true" either. The back corner of the glass is always higher than the front, and when window reaches top of travel in is not fitting nice into the top wedge of the glass run. It's as if the window needs to roll back (clockwise if looking at it from outside)
Could move the vent window forward, or "roll" it to help the upper front corner of door glass, but I know the only way the vent window can go forward and still fit opening right, would be for the door shell itself to go back. So I thought I would ask because the manual isn't clear. What kind of gap should a person have at the rear of the door to the jamb? I have about 3/16 " That's about what I have on passengers side as well, and alignment is good accept now the window works hard with the new glass run. Thinking maybe the new glass runs have a little more bulk to them being new creating some drag. If the door glass could go back some or vent window forward it would help that, but again vent windows can only go so far forward, then I am thinking doors need to go back to get more space for that.
But still even if I correct that fit on the drivers side by moving door back and giving myself a little (very little) more vent window adjustment that drivers side door glass will still have the back corner higher than the front. (The bottom of door shell gap, and body lines look good BTW)
So either this new regulator has something funky to in, or when the doors got re-skinned somehow they have a wrong shape to them. If I had some play in the holes that hold that short channel on for the regulator roller and could adjust that down some, then the front corner of door glass would rise more, and would even out.
Sorry this got more winded than I wanted :) 1) So door to jamb gap at latch post. 2) Anyone else have problems with repro regulators or glass run inserts. 3)Whatever else you want to throw at me :)
Gonna check the rear rollers on the both door glass after lunch here to make sure they are rolling freely. That will be a trick.
David Siedschlag
#16306 1967 Lime Frost S-code, Ivy gold interior built 11-1-66
3.25 Limited slip, 4-speed. Courtesy lights, sports console, whisper-aire, AM-8track, deluxe belts.
1989 Toyota truck, woodgas powered
22re 4x4

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