metal part finishes

Paint, bondo, body work, and rust repair: whatever it takes to make your Cougar look new again, all goes here
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johnque
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metal part finishes

#1

Post by johnque »

My rear brakes need some work. I figure while I'm there I can take the opportunity to restore the various metal components. There seems to be good sources on body part colors/finishes, there does't seem to be much on individual metal part color/finishes. Some parts are "natural", some are phosphate and oil, etc.

While I am not going for concours on my daily driver, just for fun I figured I would think about an extra step beyond a bath in evapo-rust for the drum and parts. Any consolidated info out there? Are Mustang concours sites reliable for Cougars?

Thanks!
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1969 Eliminator - Competition Orange, 4-Speed

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pellets4fuel
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Re: metal part finishes

#2

Post by pellets4fuel »

The Concours Mustang site has a a lot of info on it as to colors, finishes and the best ways to achieve them. Most are applicable to our Cougars. http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/in ... #msg126203 Here is one such on brake drums if that's what your after. With any of the detailing of parts the fun is in keeping them looking that way on a 'driver' car.
David Siedschlag
#16306 1967 Lime Frost S-code, Ivy gold interior built 11-1-66
3.25 Limited slip, 4-speed. Courtesy lights, sports console, whisper-aire, AM-8track, deluxe belts.
1989 Toyota truck, woodgas powered
22re 4x4

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johnque
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Re: metal part finishes

#3

Post by johnque »

Good point David on the keeping them like that while driving them! May not be worth the hassle, especially on these type of hidden parts. Thanks for the link!
1969 Eliminator - Competition Orange, 4-Speed

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pellets4fuel
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Re: metal part finishes

#4

Post by pellets4fuel »

Just so you know I wasn't saying not to do anything, but just to keep in mind what you do for your driver vrs someone else's 'trailer queen'
There is a good cast grey paint (VHT brand I think?) that looks nice on rear brake drums. The brush on version holds up better than the rattle can version from what I've read. Time will tell as I have it on my rears and front discs (unmachined areas)
David Siedschlag
#16306 1967 Lime Frost S-code, Ivy gold interior built 11-1-66
3.25 Limited slip, 4-speed. Courtesy lights, sports console, whisper-aire, AM-8track, deluxe belts.
1989 Toyota truck, woodgas powered
22re 4x4

********
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Re: metal part finishes

#5

Post by ******** »

If you want to duplicate many of the bare metal finishes without leaving the metal bare look no further than Eastwood products. I used them on many components that were glass beaded.

https://www.eastwood.com/welders/mig-we ... pAQAvD_BwE
-Keith

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jcbingcougar
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Re: metal part finishes

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Post by jcbingcougar »

67427GT500 wrote:
05 Oct 2019, 23:51
If you want to duplicate many of the bare metal finishes without leaving the metal bare look no further than Eastwood products. I used them on many components that were glass beaded.

https://www.eastwood.com/welders/mig-we ... pAQAvD_BwE
-Keith
I agree that Eastwood products look great in the engine compartment although I would term them more as an approximation of the original finish rather than a duplication. You can certainly tell that the finish is painted and in almost all cases, a slightly different color than it would have been originally.
Jeff Bingaman
1970 Cougar
1956 Ford F100
1960 Dodge Phoenix
2017 Mustang GT Premium
2017 F150 Platinum

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Re: metal part finishes

#7

Post by ******** »

I would completely agree. However, he OP didn't mention concours. I spent a small fortune in plating of various types. Because I have a large collection of firearms I can do finishes like parkerizing and phosphating at home. The paint finishes also hold up much better than the factory on most items.
I don't drive me vehicle in the rain but you can't avoid what lies in the gutter.
-Keith

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