Export brace mounting help.

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pellets4fuel
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Export brace mounting help.

#1

Post by pellets4fuel » 04 Mar 2018, 12:14

Looking for advice/ideas (hopefully with some photos) of ideas on how to get my shock towers jacked apart on my 67 390 to get my Export brace in. I bought the premium one from WCCC where in the video Don says to make the car fit the brace, not the brace to fit the car. My car is all in paint mind you, in the stages of final assembly, with the engine in. Hey, probably not the right time to be doing this I know, but I've learned a lot along the way :wall: I really didn't do any major floor repair to the car. The floor boards are stock, as are the fender aprons. The torque box was ok so I didn't do anything there. The one thing I did do was replace the DS floor board support. Not because it was rusty, but because POs' obviously liked putting the jack stand there, or floor jack, and the thing was virtually flat, and the floor pushed up some. Passengers side one has similar damage, but no where near as bad, so I left that one in place. I had the standard braces in place when I did it. DS shock tower needs to go out a good 1/4 maybe a little more to get the shock cap bolts to line up with the holes in the brace.

So I am envisioning an adjustable monte carlo bar, in a straight version, not sure if anyone already makes one in a straight version? I know they have the curved version on WCCC that's adjustable, but I am afraid the curve would just deflect as one tries to push, but maybe not. Just thought I would ask before I would spend the money on one.
I'm envisioning making a temporary one out of some heavier pipe/tube, 3/4 or 1in maybe. A piece coming in from each shock tower with enough gap between them to get a couple of nuts in there, and a little leeway perhaps to get the whole thing bolted in place. The threaded rod would be long enough to go inside the pipe/tube (close to the width of engine bay) in order to "truss" the assembly internally keeping the whole thing straight as you push the shock towers apart with the nuts pushing against the pipe/tube.
Anyway, hope that makes sense? Maybe I am overkill thinking. Maybe someone has a simpler idea?
Thanks in advance!
David
David Siedschlag
#16306 1967 Lime Frost S-code, Ivy gold interior
4-speed, A/C, sports console, AM-8track.
1980 Toyota truck, woodgas powered
22re 4x4

CATHOUSE
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Re: Export brace mounting help.

#2

Post by CATHOUSE » 04 Mar 2018, 12:18

Use a Port-A-Power. That will spread the towers.

Randy Goodling
CCOA #95

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badcatt
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Re: Export brace mounting help.

#3

Post by badcatt » 04 Mar 2018, 15:25

CATHOUSE wrote:
04 Mar 2018, 12:18
Use a Port-A-Power. That will spread the towers.

Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
Start by putting the front of the car on jack stands. Place the stands at the point where the front frame rails meet the torque boxes or just aft where the rail is parallel with the floor under the car. You can also find this location in a shop manual. On one car I let is sit over night and the brace went on like it should. If after a reasonable amout of time it still does not fit try the port-a-power.
The last 2 Cougars I have put them on they fit like the cars were new. 1 being a 70 Convertible. Good luck.
Neal Jacobson.
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pellets4fuel
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Re: Export brace mounting help.

#4

Post by pellets4fuel » 04 Mar 2018, 15:46

Hey Randy and Neal,
Thanks for the advice. So when your mentioning pushing with a porta power what are you suggesting pushing on? About the only place one can get a straight shot between the shock towers with the engine in (390 at least) is from bolt head to bolt head on the upper most bolts towards the front of vehicle that hold the coil spring covers on.
Neal, right now I do have the car up on jacks on each side at the jacking location behind the front wheels. It has been hanging like that a couple of days. Do you think jack stands at the hoisting lift locations will make a difference in how that front end "falls"?
It did "fall" some. The brace comes into an obvious better alignment with it up on jacks, just not enough. Going to have to redo drivers door alignment and both fenders when I am done. Yea!
David
David Siedschlag
#16306 1967 Lime Frost S-code, Ivy gold interior
4-speed, A/C, sports console, AM-8track.
1980 Toyota truck, woodgas powered
22re 4x4

CATHOUSE
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Re: Export brace mounting help.

#5

Post by CATHOUSE » 04 Mar 2018, 15:57

In full disclosure this is not a job that I have ever had to do. The experience that I do have using a port-a-power though says that I would not want to use it on the bolt heads you are describing. I would want to be directly on the face of the tower. Perhaps if you removed the carb you would be able to place the tool on the face of the tower?

Randy Goodling
CCOA #95

pellets4fuel
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Re: Export brace mounting help.

#6

Post by pellets4fuel » 04 Mar 2018, 16:16

I agree, a single bolt head wouldn't cut it. At the very least I was thinking like the simpler monte carlo bars mount with a thicker plat that fastens to the top two bolts on each side.
Perhaps if the carb comes off one could get on the shock tower more, but still would want something as sizeable as one could get with a cushion back to spread the load. Shock towers are not super thick steel either to be just pushing on a single spot.
David
David Siedschlag
#16306 1967 Lime Frost S-code, Ivy gold interior
4-speed, A/C, sports console, AM-8track.
1980 Toyota truck, woodgas powered
22re 4x4

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1969XR7Vert
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Re: Export brace mounting help.

#7

Post by 1969XR7Vert » 04 Mar 2018, 18:37

Wood (2" x 4" length and a block) and a bottle jack = poor man's port - a - power. That's what I'd be trying of none of the other suggestions work.
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Royce
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Re: Export brace mounting help.

#8

Post by Royce » 04 Mar 2018, 18:51

If you jack the car at the front frame rails and then place jack stands under the torque box on the LH side and at the same spot on the RH side the export brace should fit easily. This spreads the shock towers using the weight of the car and the force of each front spring.
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pellets4fuel
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Re: Export brace mounting help.

#9

Post by pellets4fuel » 04 Mar 2018, 18:56

Thanks Royce. So supporting the car in that area vrs at the standard jacking locations on the rails behind the front rails will make the car "spring" different your saying? Like I said I have had it hanging on jacks by the standard jacking locations for at least a couple days now.
David
David Siedschlag
#16306 1967 Lime Frost S-code, Ivy gold interior
4-speed, A/C, sports console, AM-8track.
1980 Toyota truck, woodgas powered
22re 4x4

Aussiexr7
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Re: Export brace mounting help.

#10

Post by Aussiexr7 » 04 Mar 2018, 23:05

1969XR7Vert wrote:
04 Mar 2018, 18:37
Wood (2" x 4" length and a block) and a bottle jack = poor man's port - a - power. That's what I'd be trying of none of the other suggestions work.
This is exactly what I did. Took 5 minutes and easily moved towers the half inch needed, doesn’t really take much at all. Put blocks against inner fenders at top where the bolts joining with shock tower is.
Steve
69 xr7 428 Dark Ivy Green

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