replacement door skin repair

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pellets4fuel
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Re: replacement door skin repair

Post by pellets4fuel » 05 Jan 2018, 22:28

Trixie,
67 model year.

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Don Rush
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Re: replacement door skin repair

Post by Don Rush » 08 Jan 2018, 11:29

door2.jpg
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door1.jpg
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pellets4fuel
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Re: replacement door skin repair

Post by pellets4fuel » 08 Jan 2018, 12:59

Don,
Really apologize for the misunderstanding, but I need the gap distance in between from the face where the belt line weather strip would go to that vertical lip on the inner structural panel.
Thanks!

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Don Rush
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Re: replacement door skin repair

Post by Don Rush » 08 Jan 2018, 13:28

door12.jpg
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door11.jpg
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pellets4fuel
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Location: WI

Re: replacement door skin repair

Post by pellets4fuel » 08 Jan 2018, 13:38

I'll check measuring it the way you did. Here is what I have from a different spot holding the tape different. Wonder how much tolerance they allowed? Probably were jigged and welded.
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pellets4fuel
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Re: replacement door skin repair

Post by pellets4fuel » 08 Jan 2018, 14:09

So I am noticing by that picture that there appears to be a foam or foam rubber piece stuck to the door edge. I thought the seal was the little wedge shaped piece that glued to the wing (vent) window. Is it possible they had more that one seal in that area, with one mating (pressing) into the other?

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Don Rush
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Re: replacement door skin repair

Post by Don Rush » 08 Jan 2018, 14:37


pellets4fuel
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Re: replacement door skin repair

Post by pellets4fuel » 08 Jan 2018, 16:30

Yep, ordered those. Glued them into the little channel in the vent window frame. They don't seem like they are going to close the gap up hence the reason to know that gap and get my tabs reattached from inside to outside. That channel are though when vent window is installed is about 1/2inch below top of door edge. Seems like it should be up further.

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1jarhead2
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Re: replacement door skin repair

Post by 1jarhead2 » 19 Jan 2018, 07:53

Seeing as how the outer doors skin is already painted, I would not take a chance on welding it. If it was mine,I would use Lord Fusor® 2098 Crash Durable Structural Adhesive, simpler prep and incredible holding strength, easy cleanup if Mr Murphy pops up and causes a little spillage. It is used in building of new vehicles and in collision repair. I use it for extra strength when restoring vintage Porsches. You can easily bend up a tab and glue the inner and outer shells together. My vent windows are still in and I havent started the disassembly. If you dont have a way of fabricating the a piece to glue in, give me the distance between the inner and outer skin and I will quickly bend you up a tab to be glued in place. when the seals and vent window is back in,we wont tell anybody and no one will ever know.

pellets4fuel
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Re: replacement door skin repair

Post by pellets4fuel » 19 Jan 2018, 09:17

Hey thanks for the input. I did get them back together. I actually tig welded them ( no sparks) Was able to shear and bend up some small tabs for the missing ones. Biggest thing with the tig welding was to get all impurities out otherwise it doesn't weld the best. I was very careful on watching how much heat I allowed to get in the "picture" I even flash cooled down with a cold wet soaked rag several times.
Both doors turned out great. Passenger side door alignment stayed fine. Drivers door actually had a twist to it without the tabs attached. So much so that the long bolt that goes through the vent window frame..... well the hole on the inside panel was a complete hole off from the threaded weldnut on the tab on the outer panel. I made a "dummy" spacer to represent the thickness of the vent window frame, and getting in the right Yoga position :) held in on the bottom outside of the door with my knee, pushed out on the top inside corner and the door twisted back to a point where the bolt path came into alignment. Held it there and tightened the bolt to hold it, then fabricated tabs and welded in. Took bolt out, and wahla it stayed. Down side; now the door alignment is off. I have never adjusted a door before, so on to learning something new!

Also wondering if anyone has ever had this happen....I got the passengers door all done. Glass in and aligned, weather strip glued on. Very pleased with the results with body lines, windows to opening etc. While working on the drivers door however I thought I would put a used sill plate in place to make the sit a little more comfortable while working. Upon starting to do some adjusting I'm noticing that the door won't shut all the way. Well I figure the door does need to be adjusted so it is bumping somewhere. Well it does/is. On the bottom of my doors are some channels spot welded on. Straight side on the "outboard" side, but wavey cut on the inside. The perimeter weather strip runs in this channel So the wavey is bumping the sill plate, so now I have scratched paint on that piece (touch up...crap :wall: ) So I thought crap....what happens if I attach a sill plate on the passengers side that I have all done and like the way it fits/looks? Sure enough bumps the sill plate. So now what? do those tabs need to be tweaked up some? they sure seem like they stick down a ways. It almost looks like they are suppose to pinch the lower perimeter weather strip. No way they will do that where they are at. Only other thing would be to raise the door up in the opening so they clear, but I have good lines and gaps in the jamb.
Suggestions? Will try to get a photo of it later today.
David
Last edited by pellets4fuel on 19 Jan 2018, 09:32, edited 1 time in total.

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